@Komet said in Ultimaker Evolved:

@CCS86 I was also looking in ways to shorten the bowden tube and also came up with the idea of hanging the extruder on top of the printer. But your design also looks very interesting! Do you mind sharing the stl files for the extruder mount?

No problem.

BearingStepperMount.rar.txt
(just remove the .txt extension and extract)

I played with hanging the extruder, from the ceiling to start, and then from a frame mounted tripod. I found it hard to control the extruder drive from flopping around during certain print motions, and filament changes were a pain. This solution is much more liveable for me. I only run a 2.5mm retraction, which I think is pretty good for a bowden setup.

@MRJEON said in Axis limits:

Then, if the minimum value x 0 and the maximum value x 150, is the zero point x 75?

OK let's use the actual command M208.

Assuming all other settings are correct...

If I use M208 X0:300 Y0:300 then X=0 Y=0 should be the left-front corner and X=300 Y=300 the back-right corner AND X=150 Y=150 the center of the bed.

If I use M208 X-150:150 Y-150:150 then X=-150 Y=-150 should be the left-front corner and X=150 Y=150 the back-right corner AND X=0 Y=0 the center of the bed.

Does that help?

Frederick

@Veti 360Watts. I have to get some wire ferrules in a bit to get a good reading on my wires from the bed. I had a plastic one sent to me instead of an actual one. .

@wmschultz You could take a look at my YouTube Channel and blog - links in my signature.

As DC said, I have been using Diamond mixing hot ends for a number of years but more recently have been trying to develop my own 6 input mixing hot end. I've used Mosquito heat breaks (but all metal heat breaks are not good for mixing hot ends which might have loaded but static filament - excellent for any other type of hot end where all loaded filaments keep moving forward).

I currently have 3 hot ends under development - all are water cooled.

One is a single input standard type of Chinese crap. The second is the 6 input mixing hot end with PTFE lined heat breaks. The third is a dual input, all metal hot end designed to always have a mixing ratio of 0.5:0.5 such that both filaments are always moving forward. This latter version is an "E3D volcano killer" but it uses modified Slice Engineering parts. For reasons of intellectual property rights, I can't publish much about it.

problem solved, in RRF3 if the heater is different from H1 this order must be respected.
M950
M141
M143

; Riscaldatore della camera

M950 H4 C"duex.e3heat" T4 ; configura l'uscita per il riscaldamento della camera sull pin e della scheda duex
M141 H4 ; il riscaldatore 4 è il riscaldatore della camera
M308 S4 P"duex.e3temp" Y"thermistor" T100000 B5500 C7.06Ee-8 ; configure sensor 4 as thermistor on pin duex.e2temp
M143 H4 S70 ; set temperature limit for heater 0 to 120C
M301 H4 B1 ; utilizzare il controllo bang-bang per il riscaldatore della camera

@BigMoff96 i feel you bro. Also swtiched from a rostock delta too. If you accept suggestion leave deltas and buy/make something more stable. Delta is very nice to look at, but i switched to a corexy (voron 2) and i would never come back. Now i started printing, with deltas i've only played 😃 just my 2 cents

tmc2660 on duet 2 is connected with series sense resistor on the output H bridge .
if you're lucky , you burned only the sense resistor .
check it with multimeter , R33 and R35 near the z axis driver IC .
while testing the z axis driver , did you place jumpers back on the second z motor connector ?

First of all, thank you very much, with your help I solved the problem For the extruders I use three fans connected to the same outlet that automatically turns on at 120 degrees. If you see errors in my code or things to improve please tell me. I still have to correct several anomalies but I will ask in another dedicated topic.WhatsApp Image 2020-12-27 at 09.39.37.jpeg

Here's the first thing I tried as a test of my conversion - engraving the word Sweet. It's very good - the photo shows hard shadows making it easy to see the cut.

SweetFirst.jpg

The video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8z_RnPvygiY

Someone asked for a link to the pics...
https://imgur.com/gallery/H9qKVcL

Just FYI... I've been running my single-level back-twist arrangement for over a year now with the same belt and no wear at all.

94563784-87b1-4d21-b64f-76c9aa223aec-image.png

the integrated mounts for the 1204 Spindles are nice, so I don't need to buy additional bearing blocks (...is that a good idea?!?)
...instead can print them.

My printer uses 608 bearings to support the TR12x3 Z-axis spindles. Sufficient for the couple of Newtons axial load; that was just above what the motor itself could handle.

the only modification I would need is changing the design from mgn12 to mgn15 linear rails. would that be a lot of Work ?

Why? What benefits would that provide? Did you ever check the load ratings on MGN12 rails? Those will surprise you; you can put a car on a single bearing block and then you are still far from the maximum allowed dynamic load rating.

My CNC mill uses (Rexroth) 15mm rail, that machine is rocking an 130kg gantry back and forth and putting up to 6kW of power into an endmill. And those rails are still only lightly loaded.

I think you need to adapt a slightly more scientific approach to all this. You need to obtain a feeling for the forces involved and the forces that can be handled by the components so you know when and why you need component X and not Y.

Printing all those mechanical brackets is fine, but probably not if you still insist on 120C chamber temperature. Maybe set the goal to 60-80C or so; far, far easier.

Morning David, thanks for replying.
Yes, still have a thick ground wire between the 2 boards,

Screws are tight, have 1 grounding wire to a stepper motor on the RC, but will test the ground at various points.

P.

@Luke-sLaboratory I use stacked F608 bearings for idlers in my printer- they turn very smoothly and their concentricity seems to be very good. Their 22mm diameter means I can let the toothed side of the belt ride on them without generating any artifacts in the prints. The bearings and the 8mm bolts that serve as axles are quite heavy. I expect them to last many years.

I used some cheapo 3D printer pulleys (3mm bore) in my first sand table build and found them to be junk. They wore out very quickly. A more recent version of the table uses stacked F625 bearings (5mm bore)- much better than the 3D printer pulleys.

@sinned6915 No, I am not certain the motor shafts aren't bent- I'll have to check them. One of the cheapo servomotors I used in the sand table has a bent shaft, so I suppose a stepper could, too. I originally designed the servomotor mounts with bearings and found that with that motor, the extra bearing made it run noisy, so I took the bearings out of the motor mounts.

@theruttmeister No, no preload in the linear guides.

no, that was milled from 7075 aluminum.

M566 X900.00 Y900.00 Z12.00 E120.00 ; set maximum instantaneous speed changes (mm/min)
M203 X6000.00 Y6000.00 Z1000.00 E1200.00 ; set maximum speeds (mm/min)
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z20.00 E250.00 ; set accelerations (mm/s^2)

In your config.g file change the Z acceleration and jerk values to be a bit higher. As they are now they would cause some problems with mesh compensation.

Try
M566 Z60
M201 Z200

Can you share a photo of what you mean about the quality issues?

Updated again: added the section about the noise issues I have been having and some picture 🙂