Moved the extruder and the motor out the printer , on the top.
I had to move also the roll support. It need to stay hight.
Less weight for the head, and less thermal stress.
Now I'm printing some part s for organize the cables close to the head.
All this in prevision of the hot chamber tool.

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@deckingman that's a good point, still I would have expected endstops to suffice, but I guess that alone isn't repeatable enough. I must have inadvertently been slicing with different settings before, which would be why I hadn't noticed it.

Hi !

This is a great project !,

I tried accessing the cad files but was unable to. In case you get the time do take a look at the given link !

Thanks

@veti said in BLV mgn Cube - 3D printer Project:

at a build plate of 500 i would expect that the 2 rails would not be enough to ensure the stability of bed.
you could modify the build and add 2 additional rails and obviously the front panel would not fit anymore.

if you are not comfortable about doing your own mods you could have a look at the voron 2.1, which allows for such build volumes

@Warren-Abraham
For bigger bed plate i would recommend adding one more rail (3 z axis setup) and using auto ture leveling. It will be much better then using 4 rails. (Installation of 4 rails is a nightmare)

Thanks once again @Phaedrux.
I honestly thought it was not being applied as it went 0.25 then to 0.20.
Is there a way to show the actual height as opposed to the corrected height, ie 0.25? For me it confirms that I have my settings in Cura correct.

(Damn, I had a 5 minute video, powerpoint presentation and the likes to show how it was not working!! 😉 )

@3doeste Ah OK. I suspect that dosing tiny amounts of filament might be a bit challenging. Any idea what sort of range the ratio of dye to filament might be? Just looking at some numbers, for a 0.5mm segment length at 0.3mm layer height and 0.5mm layer width, the extruder move length is about 0.025mm which is about 0.00375 mm^3 of plastic. I would imagine that the Dye content would be in the order of parts per million of that?

Download this zip file https://github.com/dc42/RepRapFirmware/releases/download/2.03/Duet2Firmware-2.03.zip

Then upload the whole zip file as is to the Settings page in the DWC. That's all you have to do.

I think it is always going to be a work in progress , but for now I have a flying extruder , a new cooling fan duct and improved the supports for the sliders.

Fan duct has 4 white LEDs wired daisy chain ( 4 x3v =12V) and powered along with the 12volt heat break fan that now comes on at 60 degrees
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Replaced the 24 volt power supply fan , it was driving me a bit mad every time it started and would howl like a banshee for 30 or 40 seconds before settling down . Looking at the fan inside could see oil was visible all over it indicating the bearings had failed , the fan was rated for 14 volts which I have never seen before . Replaced it with a Sunon 60 x 25 mm 24 volt fan . Has to be mounted on the outside not enough room on the inside , old fan size was 60mm x 15mm . Runs much quieter even under load. Did the same with the enclosure fan replace the 12volt 80mm fan with a Sunon 24volt fan runs slower and quieter than the previous 12v fan still more than enough air flow over the duet.
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The Flyingstruder uses a bondtech clone it seems to work pretty good it doesn't skip like my last one did at 5mm/sec through the .3mm nozzle
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I have a new V3 BLTouch that arrived today.
Just need to finish printing these badges and then will test the new BLT to see if that makes a difference, then I will try PETG again........

Regards, Paul.

Could you use styrene-acrylonitrile (SAN) instead of HDPE for the side panels?

HDPE: https://plastics.ulprospector.com/generics/27/c/t/polyethylene-pe-properties-processing/sp/5
SAN:
https://plastics.ulprospector.com/generics/47/c/t/styrene-acrylonitrile-san-properties-processing]

SAN has a high Flexural Strength, and 1200X800X4 mm sheet is ~35€ and is transparent.

What are the important mechanical parameters of the plastic panels of the railCore?

Thank you @Danal !
Love your sig btw!! 👏
☺

To home it, you could pass the cable through a hole or slot in a plate or a printed part at the top of the printer, and have a knot or collet on the cable below that. Then either use a microswitch to detect when the knot pushes against the plate, or use stall detection.

Thanks to everyone for their guidance, greatly appreciated.

Bought 2 x Pololu Item #2577 - S18V20F12 step downs from HobbyTronics and have installed one for the Filament cooling fan on port 2 on my Maestro, temporarily until I get to E3D to swap a 24v fan to a 12v.
I was a bit nervous turning it all back on after making the changes, but no smoke!

update:
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/10628/large-format-printer-2

@t3p3tony Our main inspiration was the e3D ToolChanger! As soon as I saw videos of that I knew i wanted to do something similar for my senior project.

My team and I only have around 8 weeks to do the design of the machine, so that open source cable driven tool changer mechanism seemed like the cheapest, easily made/modified, and most reliable method we could find. It would have added to our scope of work to also design a tool change mechanism from scratch, and although doable it seemed more practical to make use of and modify a preexisting design.

We're using Markforged-style kinematics for the XY axis, and I haven't seen much on the forum about people actually making use of that kinematic class in the firmware so it will be interesting to get that working.

@paulhew said in X and Y shift during printing.:

My Bad, I thought the tool fan referend to the hotend fan
Hotend fan is having this issue. It is controlled by the duet gcode.

This morning I have been testing the hotend and every time it runs at full speed, after a heating and cooling cycle.

Code responsible
M106 P1 S1 I0 F500 H1 T40
Do I need the F parameter? I only need it on or off. I know its default is 250 if it is omitted.

You don't need the F parameter. The fan should turn fully on when the indicated hot end temperature rises above 40C and off when it falls below 40C.

Stepper motors are current driver, it is the work of the stepper-driver chip to chop the power-supply voltage so the current is at it adjusted value. When it is at it adjusted value the voltage on the stepper motor will be to at the proper value too.

@claustro said in All black D-bot:

For me aesthetic is very important so cable wire is a large part of the time spent building this printer,

I can see that clearly - made great!!! I am also a cable and cable-tie fetishist 😂

How satisfied are you with the v-slot guides?

Auto tuning while driving filament at different speeds would be interesting. Difficult to execute as the resistance to flow changes with temperature, not to mention the standard auto tune starting at around 40C. A pure required heating calculation correction may suffer significant error from the heating effect of ramming the larger filament through a smaller hole.

I think I may have solved it. Missing S2 on the second last line. That'll teach me to work on this stuff so late at night and tired.