@engikeneer I kickout this M92 and works fine !!! 3 weeks of fight thanks wery much

@t3p3tony Ok, thanks!

@sureshot said in Cheapest way to get 6 stepper controllers?:

buy a new Duet 3 which has the six stepper drivers.

You are aware of the Duet mini5+ option with extra two drivers daughter board, right?

@bartekp
im back to the homing , still is some thing wrong because I try to print some sample ,when ar homed all axis I set the print and as always printer start homing and at the end the z axis go down to the max low position I men down I give up

I some starting procedure ??

@dhusolo you can leave PA enabled but you may need to adjust the amount for best results.

@mart1ns
I suspected the extension cabling, so plugged the BLTouch directly into the board using the attached short leads. Same problem

I tried a PINDA from my Mk3s. Wired into IO_3 and it worked fine. Z triggered as expected.

Are you getting the Ethernet or the WiFi module? As far as i know, its one or the other. And prints are loaded onto and ran from the SD card regardless. You could unmount the SD card, put your prints on it and remount it.But you'd still need a way to get to the Web Control to run your paths, the WiFi or the Ethernet. Unless you have a panaldue which also has its own SD card.

@pcr it does light up, it makes a couple of deploys and rectracts and then it stops working. The red led is light up but then it doesn´t do anything when I run m280 commands

I tested all the boards independently
I have toolboard 0 (adress20) which creates a conflict for me in the general can bus
I am reconfiguring a toolboard to replace it
thank you

@anthoval it looks like the model you have is a PNP sensor:
017a0361-e34f-47ce-9e35-81aa0d7271e4-image.png

The documentation suggests using a resistive voltage divider to connect a PNP sensor:
https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_a_Z_probe#Section_PNP_output_normally_open_inductive_or_capacitive_sensor

For Duet 3 and 3 Mini: all IOx.in inputs have a 27K pullup resistor to +3.3V, therefore the value of R2 must be low enough to defeat this. We suggest R2 = 2.2K. Then the value of R1 should be 4.7K to 6.8K if the sensor is powered from +12V; or use 10K to 15K if the sensor is powered from +24V.

100mA is far more current than can be sourced/sunk from the IOn.IN pins so that is not the issue.

@bookra

start by ensuring that the motor movement direction and which motor is allocated to "X" and "Y" is such that you have a right hand co-ordinate system for movement. You can do this by manually moving the carriage (slowly) to the middle of the work volume, then send G92 X150 Y150 or similar so that the printer allows movement. Be careful not to send too large moves when jogging the axis. Now job the axis using DWC. Does 10mm in +/-X move in the correct way for a RH system? the same for +/- Y? If this is working correctly then move on to the endstops, if not first sort the motor directions (using M569) and/or allocation (using M584) until this is correct.

Next the endstops. If you have, for example, the y endstop at Ymax, then use Y2 in the M574 command to indicate this endstop is at Y Max. if its at Y min use Y1. Similar for X.

@elmoret
Thanks a lot. I'll see if i can get this fixed 🙂

@jay_s_uk - Ahhh ok. TY !

@hayden1993 please post your config.g (using the </> tag in the formatting bar so it imports nicely). Also post some information about what endstops you have installed.

@moe-adams9093 ok then I expect the the processor and possibly more is damaged. its hard to know in advance how much of the 3.3V logic will be damaged in this case.

@siam i think i've found the problem, i just tried stopping the daemon.g from running and it doesn't rebooted in an hour print... i think i'll have to shut it down during printing and reactivate it after.

@zapta said in 100C resettable Thermal Cut-Off for 24V heated beat:

BTW, what resettable thermal cut-off do you have in mind?

For now I mounted one exactly like those in a Kettle 100C ;-), after activation the thermo expandable medium while contract and close the circuit again...

@o_lampe said in Curious Motor Phase Errors:

@fcwilt
Knowing the inductance of the motor won't help making it faster.
I'll soon test external TMC2225 drivers which are suitable for 36V and 1.4A. Just right for those geared extruder motors (or my hitchhiker IDEX motor)
Most external driver boards have 35V capacitors and separate Vin...

I understand that. But knowing the inductance and comparing it to other steppers that don't exhibit this problem might teach me something.

I did find some specs of a sort, but being a product out of China you never know how good the specs are.

In any case the stepper is "rated" for 24 volts and I was using it on one of my first printers back when I was using 12 volts and I have never taken the time to update the printer.

Frederick

@T3P3Tony I will recheck if G10 works on tuesday.
Its a error beeing generated by the Silyer (SuperSlicer) and it shows on a new opened error window on trying to slice.

I guess its a problem on using the "[next_extruder]" varialbe on a print that uses just one tool (and there is no "next extruder".
I didnt cross check it, but I think that also Slic3r and PrusaSlicer will have the same problem.

@wurth51 if you get a short between Vssa and a higher voltage then you should get a message on the DWC console warning you of the short.