@Joep
You can search the forum for “Hiccups” witch is technically the reason for the issue.
https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/8688/stepper-movement-hiccups-and-microstepping
In the report of M122 the count is displayed.

It does have an offset, but its well within the travel range.

I think I might know whats happening. I think I may have deliberately lowered that corner before to get the mesh to work. I tried to flatten the bed to the head as best as I could after the incident. Probably was fixed years ago.

Could be wrong though, when I get home I think I will try that.

Hi gianakop ,
we share the same problem.
I received my Leapfrog from my employer who was more than happy when somebody carried it out of the office.

-here we are.20200111_100623.jpg
I had problems with y stepper noise, but now all steppers are quiet, thanks to advise from this forum.
I also improved the filament cooling by aluminum fairings. I changed the z probe to ordinary microswitch because of my limited skills in electronics. Maybe You have tried the original one?
Now I´m working with the second extruder and dual extruding and thermistors.

Set up a thermostatic fan to turn on when extra cooling is needed (see M106), and connect the SSR2 control input to that fan output.

Note, the common zero-crossing SSRs may not work with motors, so best use the random fire type of SSR instead.

No problem... at startup, home, just like any other axis. I can't overstress that I'm doing EXACTLY what you are doing, just in a circle instead of a line. It all works. No jams, no funny startups. G28 and/or G28 U work normally. etc, etc, etc.

Do include homeu.g in homeall.g

homeu.g

G91 ; Set relative mode G1 U-360 F9000 H1 ; Big negative move to search for home endstop G1 U6 F600 ; Back off the endstop G1 U-10 F600 H1 ; Find endstop again slowly G90 ; Set absolute mode

Jay is remapping so he can use stall detect. Which also works great, after you tune it. (Jay and I talk a lot on the Jubilee discord).

@Dweezy said in Project: Black'n'Yellow:

That isnt possible.

Relatable:D Looks awesome!

So I'm guessing eccentric pulley leading to uneven motion.

Hi all,

"next weekend" turned into a few weeks, but with the holidays and everything I only had limited time to work on this project. However, the remodeling is more or less completed.

I announced that I would be ditching the igus linear rails. I did so in favor of used/new old stock THK linear rails that I obtained from ebay. In particular, I bought RSR12 (ZMUU) and RSR9 (WVM - double wide rail) rails, which will help this build achieve a much higher mechanical quality but will also be carried over to future builds (the lenghts allow for a bigger build volume than this has).
The problem with the igus rails was, as mentioned, that I chose the square profile rails which are not tensionable. The round profile drylin W rail has options for setting the tension of the gilder with a screw.

For the new rails, I obviously had to account for the missing structural components of the drylin rails. The easiest and most precise thing for me was to have aluminium sheets lasercut for my purpose. So this is what I did.

I further wanted to eliminate the cheap chinese belt idlers, which I replaced with 608zz bearings on which the backsides of the belt run. Obviously there are no flanges to guide the belt, which is a bigger problem than I anticipated, so I will have to replace some of those with flanged bearings.

I opted for genuine Gates GT3 belt, to eliminate further influence from cheap components. So far the print results are way better than before, regarding the quality aspects that can be traced to the mechanics of the printer.

Pictures:

DSC01247_1.jpg

the x-axis plate has mounting options for the rail, idler, motor and optical endstop. The stepper motor is mounted in a seperate printed part that allows it to be pivoted around the lower mounting hole, allowing to tension the belt.

DSC01261.jpg

This arrangement is copied for the y-axis. The heatbed will be mounted like before.

DSC01246.jpg

assembled and running:

d81130ac-061d-44f0-9599-850f33a2a8a7-image.png

DSC01479.jpg

right now the printer is printing some parts for itself, namely the cooling ducts for hotend and part.

A short glimpse under the hood:

DSC01471_1.jpg

Why the board hasn't been mounted with it's edge facing outward to easily connect the ethernet cord, I can't tell 😄 I didn't deem it too important at the time, unfortunately.

I still have to tidy up the cabling of the hotend as well; the cables are connected with two 8-pin connectors for which I want to design plug housings and strain reliefs as well.

On the topic of the x-axis falling down when the power is taken off the steppers.... yes it will of course, and unfortunately also when the stepper's coils are shorted. I will design a little lever that the x-axis can run over at the z-max end, which will snap into place to keep the x-axis up after power-off; I have a RC servo lying around which I will use to release it automatically.

I'm overall happy with the rebuild and hope I'll be able to use the printer for railway modelling etc. in the future.

Best regards, Niklas

Problem solved! This has taken months. I checked grub screws, belt teeth…. I had noticed that now and then the hot end juddered when moving to position, but not all the time. The person I bought the machine from had cable tied the hot end cable harness to 1 of the Z motor arms. It was hanging loose and tidied up the harness, as it does tend to flop about on my other machine.
When close to the bed (within 10mm) and only in specific positions it held the arm causing the belt to slip! Also G29 failed most of the time as the probe was not triggered due to the arm being held back. The judder now solved, G29 completes and bed leveling showing a decent graph.
Thanks for your help. (I have learned lots of G code and Duet wiring though)
Gary

@JamesM Well, then I´m quite happy again.
Thanks for your fast answer, happy new year!

@Veti Thank you so much, that was the solution!

Happy new year to you! (hope I´ll be fine with the rest) 😀

@dc42 Thanks for the explanation, that makes a lot of sense. When I have access to my machine again I'll try that out.

@JuJuDelta Thanks! I used 8mm thick dual layer PC that fits very nicely into the 8mm wide slots in the 4040 t-slot. It looks nice, but can make working on the machine a little troublesome. I have reworked a couple parts of the Z axis to make it easy to work on without removing any of the PC panels, and I never have to work on the XY mechanism, except the extruder carriage where I do a lot of experimenting with extruders and hot-ends. It's a pretty low maintenance machine, partially because I used very few plastic parts in the mechanism.

It wasn't nearly as costly as you might think. I built it using a lot of surplus parts and materials gathered over about a year, so it cost a little over $1k all-in. I did the limited amount of machining myself at the makerspace.

I find that setting the chamber to 50C allows me to print ABS without worrying about it splitting or warping. It's also not hot enough to cause problems for the motors or other mechanical parts. The XY motors are outside the chamber, but they didn't really have to be. The electronics are all in the top of the machine, away from the heat.

@jhonf441 Hello again, I maybe made that sound more complex than it is, here goes again:

In my slicing program under filament diameter I use a value of 50mm.
Also in the slicing program, I set the nozzle diameter for the printer to 1mm.

The slicing program knows from these settings just the right rate of speed at which to advance the plunger through the syringe, because I have an extruder e-step value that is accurate. If I send a command to extrude 10mm the plunger moves downward 10mm.

Many other tweaks can be made, such as "flow multiplier" in the slicer, or realtime extruder motor adjustments in the Duet web interface for fine tuning.

The speed of the auger in my tool can be adjusted independently as well in the Duet web interface. However, the auger isn't really pulling the clay through the feed tube, just helping avoid lag or oozing.

I hope that makes more sense.

@Laurensvdg said in Ender3 + Duet Wifi,Dual Z, E3D Hemera, BLTouch. Need Advice:

As a part cooling fan i used a 6000 rpm 5015 12v sunon fan which is actually pretty nice, but does not like to be run with less than 12v and i can't figure out how to control the speed on it...

Try adjusting the PWM frequency using the M106 F parameter. Values from 10 to 30000 hz are valid. The Sunon blower I'm using is not super powerful so it basically needs to be at 100% at all times anyway, but changing the frequency can often help adjust for sound level as well.

Man, this is amazing!! I created profile here just to ask if you would mind sharing some tutorial or details on this?

Yes, it is galvanized... But it is not a special steel.

I assume you're getting this error when trying to move an axis before the printer has been homed? Or is this when doing the homing? Provide your config.g and homing files either way.

@Veti said in Maestro with RRF3:

M950 S0 C"zprobe.mod" ; create servo pin 0 for BLTouch
M558 P9 C"zprobe.in" H5 F120 T6000 ; set Z probe type to bltouch and the dive height + speeds
you will need to manually edit config for now.

That's all correct. We'll change configtool to allow zprobe.mod as the PWM control pin. @PaulHew , thanks for reporting this.

@dc42 Thank you Very much, David, that’s what I was able to realize, once I monitored arm movement. Surprisingly, the same printfile executes properly on my Ultibot DV300, however I see the print head drops a little while waiting for nozzle to heat.
Currently, trying to properly setup QuadFusion printhead, but I will start another thread.